When changing our hair color with the seasons we should consider many elements; our skin tone, the colors we wear, how many steps it will take to achieve the desired look, maintenance, and how much money will we invest in our hair.
Educating our clients and consultation are the two most important factors in successful salon experiences. Asking questions and photo references are also helpful during a consultation because “rich brunettes”, “ash blondes”, & “caramel” colors are all different in each of our eyes.
Going from dark to light will always be a multi-step process; but how about when we have a client that’s blonde and would like to go dark?
Checking the condition of the hair, the porosity (how well it can hold & absorb moisture) elasticity, (how much it will stretch without breaking) are some of the key fundamentals.
If a stylist were to put brown color on top of blonde without re-tinting/filling the hair, it would result in a mucky green/grey finish. This is why filling the hair before formulating the perfect brunette is imperative. Aside from a beautiful rich finish, it will also fade out better and guarantee longevity.
This service can take anywhere from 3-5 hours and may take two appointments at the salon. Before beginning the service, we should remind our clients of the commitment they are about to make.
If the client has a naturally darker root, the long term maintenance may be easier for them with fewer visits to the salon in comparison to the client who has had their hair highlighted/balayaged and may require a touch up every 8-12 weeks. Although maintenance may now require a single process color and a glaze to keep the tone, it is less compromising than applying bleach.
Some of us love a change every so often and others are content with their “go to” look. Whichever client you are, it is important to be in the hands of an educated professional.
Let’s take a look at one of our long term clients that likes change.
First step is creating a natural/rich brunette with depth at the root.
- Zone 1 (dry hair) REDKEN Shades Cream 4N + 5WN with 10 Volume
- Zone 2 (midshaft-ends) Re-tinted with REDKEN Shades Gloss 1.5oz 6G + .5 8CR, 20 Min
- blending these zones together will achieve a melted look & keep dimension.
- Next, shampoo and towel dry, and apply an all over gloss of 8N,8GI & 9NB , 10-15 Min
- REDKEN Shades Gloss will give an iridescent finish, complimenting previous highlights/balayage.
Keeping in mind that my client wants a multi-dimensional color with pops of lightness; I dry the hair completely to start the balayage process. When the service is complete, I recommended we let it oxidize and wash out over the next few days. We set an appointment for her follow up visit one week later to complete the transformation.
After analyzing my clients hair and asking many questions, we decided to deepen her root color to enrich her natural ash base. We also ashed out/deepened the ends.
Partial Balayage with 30 volume
- In between each foil within zones 2 & 3 I used REDKEN Gloss 6T & 5N, 20 Min
- this will rid leftover warmth
- Shampooed , combed through, towel dried
- Shadow root to deepen base in Zone 1 using 6T & 5NA
- Color melt down to mid-shaft and ends using 8GI & 9NB with a dash on 9P on new balayage pieces for 10 minutes
Now that the hair has been filled, faded and re pigmented, I recommended to see my client back in the next 8 weeks to touch up her base color and tone the balayage.